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July 2001 - Newsletter
Thanks to Barry Donahue for the use of his images.
The President's Letter by Carol Odell
From a Father by Dr. Mayo Johnson
My Jewel Box by Virginia B. Clarendon
Namequoit Sailing Association by Charlotte Noerdlinger
Chatham Yacht Club by Roy Terwilliger
Pleasant Bay Cruising Club by Ken Simpson
Cape Cod Vikings
Towns Favor to Ban PWCs by Jeff McLaughlin
Intertidal Studies Defining Bay Habitats
Horseshoe Crab Study
Water Quality Test Results by Jeff McLaughlin
The Mystery of QPX
Kill the Beast by Ken Simpson
George Cooper Joins Board
Middle School Grant Winners
Help for Muddy Creek

THE PRESIDENT'S LETTER

By Carol Odell

From a Friend
To the Friends,

Summer is the time when many of us feel closest to Pleasant Bay, as individuals, as families, as Friends.

We may fish or sail or swim. We may sketch or shoot or write. We may simply daydream in the bay's sheltering lee. Whatever.

Pleasant Bay restores us in summer.
And in this newsletter, summer activities are the focus of some of our words and all of photographer Barry Donahue's evocative images.

But we also note here that the bay has troubles, that the bay needs us now as much as we need the bay. The numbers of us who receive benefit and enjoyment from the bay make up a rising curve. As more and more of us come to Pleasant Bay for regeneration, we have to ask, "How is Pleasant Bay being replenished?"

As Friends, we are challenged to help find answers to that question, answers that aim to ensure that the good health of Pleasant Bay is sustained for many summers beyond our lifetimes. Concern for the well-being of Pleasant Bay and all its citizens --- plants, critters, and humans --- has been FOPB's prime concern since being founded in 1985.

In 2001, we see a broad spectrum of efforts devoted to the bay. This welcome development means the role of FOPB can continue to evolve. Toward that end, we try to maintain close contacts with the Pleasant Bay Alliance; with other citizen groups, including other "Friends of ---" groups; with an array of environmental groups; with all those who live and/or work on the bay or within its watershed; and with governments and their administrative, regulatory and judicial agencies.

The FOPB Board can feel overwhelmed sometimes!
But to truly help the bay, we Friends --- members and Board members alike --- have to make commitments to stay informed about the many issues of concern to the bay.

With this idea in mind, the Board has made public education a focus of recent activities.

The School Grants Committee guides our ongoing financial support of projects that introduce young people to the complex ecology of the bay.

This year, for example, students and teachers from Nauset Regional Middle School used grants to achieve penetrating insights about Pleasant Bay. And then the Nauset teams shared their insights and creations with a broad public audience in the region, both in their evening program of performance and exhibits, and in subsequent newspaper articles and editorials.

What they learned touches everyone: The students found the beauty of the bay in the web of life that is its biodiversity. And they discovered too that the bay's beauty resonates in the aesthetic responses it inspires in those who come to know it deeply, whether those responses are expressed through music, photography, prose or any other creative form.

The Publications Committee also works on developing projects that expand awareness of Pleasant Bay. The aim is to broaden public understanding both culturally and scientifically, using books, guides, newsletters and now a website as educational tools.

And the full Board, in vigorous response to the Friends' overwhelming sentiment, is giving strong public support to proposed bans on the operation of PWCs (Personal Water Crafts, aka "Jet-skis") in the portions of Pleasant Bay controlled by Orleans, Harwich and Chatham. Town Meetings in all three communities this spring enacted such bans. Now the issue is at the state level, and FOPB continues to work on presentation of the Cape towns' clearcut wishes to officials on Beacon Hill.

Education also can mean scholarly study. FOPB continues to support the ongoing Horseshoe Crab Study it commissioned last year, and contributes to the Intertidal Habitat and Sediment Assessment Study commissioned by the Pleasant Bay Alliance. In addition, numerous Friends are involved in the Water Quality Monitoring programs being conducted annually.

All these enterprises educate the public about the treasured resource we have in Pleasant Bay.

With education come familiarity, understanding and greater appreciation. All of us are now learning that the well-being of Pleasant Bay is directly affected not only by what may occur in and on its waters or waterfront, but also by what goes on at a greater distance inland from its shores than has been generally realized.

This emerging concern is a key reason we have invited John Lipman, deputy director and chief planner of the Cape Cod Commission, to be our principal speaker at the FOPB Annual Meeting on July 26 at the Wequasset Inn. The fact is that burgeoning development and intensive human use of Cape Cod do have adverse effects on the groundwater that we drink to live, and hence also on the salt waterways that sustain our spirits.

None of is is exempt from responsibility on issues threatening environmental health.

Whether we live on the bay, near the bay, or even miles from the bay Š whether we visit here for one week a year or live here year 'round Š whether we are the first or the tenth generation of our family to be here Š we all contribute to the problems. We are hoping Mr. Lipman will shed some light on how we all can contribute to solutions.

Some may point out that FOPB is "advertising and promoting" Pleasant Bay. In one sense, no question --- we have books and posters and membership drives, while some would prefer to keep the bay a secret. But that time is gone. Nothing can make Pleasant Bay a secret again.

In fact most of us want to share this bay, share its joys, its beauty, its bounty. But in order to have enough to share, even among those of us here now, and especially in generations to come, we must each preserve, conserve, and continue to educate ourselves. It will take committed efforts by many people to stay the decline which is becoming more and more evident.

Any particular human activity, taken alone, may not be critically harmful to the bay, but multiply the incidence of an activity to match the development levels we see today, and there is a huge problem. There must be limits on activities on and around the bay to sustain its natural health. Good stewardship is the goal. Limits, restrictions or bans frequently can seem unfair to some, and can be painful. However if we look to solve an environmental problem the same way it was created --- many small individual decisions combining to have a large net effect --- we may see some healing, regeneration and re-creation for the bay.

Pleasant Bay surely will restore us all this summer. May we use our imaginations while we swim, fish, clam, sail, row or kayak. May we find inspiration and ideas, answers and commitments. May we sustain this treasured resource as it nurtures us.

Sincerely,

Carol Odell
President, FOPB Board of Directors

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From a Father

Dear Ken,

I'm so happy that you are coming to Orleans to go fishing with me! We will be continuing a tradition, and in preparation, I've been checking the tides. The first morning you are here, we should plan to be at Strong Island by dawn when the ebb starts. I'll take my fly rod and you can use a popping plug, or a buck tail and pork rind. I no longer like to fish with eels unless desperate to get a keeper.

When the sun is up, we'll be hungry and can go home for breakfast --- unless of course the fish are biting!

Later in the day, when the tide is well out, we'll go back, take a few casts off Namequoit Point, and drift along the eel grass beds between Hog Island Flat and Portanimicut. If the sun is shining, we can see the channels well, and perhaps we'll be able to watch the fish come up on the flats if we're quiet and there aren't any other boats around. We'll go down Little Crooked Channel, fish the rocks at that place my grandfather called the Bass Hole, and then drift along back of the house with the cupola.

Bass or bluefish for the table will be our goal. I do hope we'll have something to skiver for dinner! If we get skunked in Little Bay, we'll try the Narrows, take a cast or two close to Rooster Rock, in the rip at the end of Dogfish Bar, and by the spot off the old air base. We also have that stretch from Minister's Point to the harbor mouth. We might even get a fluke, although they've been scarce since South Island became South Beach four or five years ago.

Speaking of islands becoming beaches, you've been fishing in Pleasant Bay long enough to see a lot in the recent changes. Think back to the stories my grandfather told. His dad, Captain Samuel Mayo, was able to sail his 60-foot mackerel schooner, the Corporal Trim, into Chatham Harbor, which was then just east of Strong Island, then tack or reach through Little Bay and up the river to Barley Neck. In those days, Pochet Island was a real island. In a small boat, you could sail, as my grandfather did, from Pleasant Bay to Nauset Harbor behind, or as it was said, inside Nauset Beach.

There was very little fishing for pleasure back then. The Cape as well as the rest of the country was in an economic depression, and the Mayos had to work long hours just to scratch out a living.

Once though, my grandfather said, he caught "a mess of blues" while trolling behind his skiff in Frostfish Cove. Yes, I admit I was skeptical about this location too, since now it's a very shallow place where you'd expect nothing more than snappers or blue claws, but Richard Brown told me about a school of blues that followed the pogies right up into Lonnie's Pond, then couldn't find their way out. It makes the story about my grandfather's experience more believable.

Most of his fishing was not for fun at all, though, since he spent most of his time clamming with his father, Captain Sam. That was hard work. Imagine, day after day, walking to the shore at Jack Knife Point while pushing your heavy gear in a wheelbarrow, then loading the skiff and rowing down to the flats. They'd have the tide with them coming and going, but they were bound to have a head wind in one direction or the other. The two of them would pull at those heavy oars, past Old Field Point, Namequoit Point, Money Head --- out to the clamming grounds back of the outer beach. Then it was dig, dig, dig until the tide turned, and then they rowed home to pack the clams and ship them off to market.

It's a good thing they were both short men: It meant they didn't have to bend so far! But the work was still wet, muddy, and cold.

The bay has changed a lot in 150 years, and so too the fishing. It keeps on changing. You remember when you were a little boy how plentiful the flounder used to be? There were so many all I had time to do was give you and your sister lines with spreaders, and bait the hooks with worms. The two of you no sooner dipped your lines in and you were yelling that you had a fish! Now flounder are scarce.

For a long period there were no bluefish either, until one day Jessie Sargent looked out, saw fish breaking, and went to find out what they were: That marked the return of the blues to Pleasant Bay! When the blight of the 1930s killed off the eel grass, the brant, bass and shellfish took an awful hit too.

The issues now are excess nitrogen, wake damage, fuel and noise pollution. Some blame the scarcity of fish on too many cormorants and seals. The ecology of the bay is a delicate balance, a microcosm of the problems that confront our planet. Any change may have effects we cannot always predict. If we hope to preserve Pleasant Bay for your children and grandchildren we'll have to strive to make sure the changes are in the best interest of this beloved, but fragile estuary.

On this sober and reflective note, I'll tuck this in the mail. Bring your foul weather gear, but don't worry about waders: Yours are hanging in the barn. It's not like the Front Range, but it is where your ancestors settled, and where you too are deeply rooted. Have a safe flight.

Love, Dad
( Dr. Mayo Johnson)

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My Jewel Box

By Virginia B. Clarendon

Let me tell you of my jewels, of my proud possessions, of what they are and where they are.

My jewels are close at hand, just over the hill from my home, in Pleasant Bay.

Have you ever seen the blue of the bay on a sharp, clear winter day? That color is as startling as a perfect sapphire. If you prefer jade, you will find it looking down into the dark green depths of the bay from dock or boat. On moonlit nights, silver disc riding high over the water, I see diamonds, a sparkling path of them on the bay, from moon to me. Sunlight makes an even more brilliant bracelet of diamonds, so bright I cannot look at it for long.

If the day is foggy, I see pearls, pearls set in platinum, in the water's color. On a cloudy day, the bay is like an opal, many-hued and ever-changing. There are tourmaline days when the bay picks up color from land and sky. The water off our dock at low tide often is like the semi-precious stone called the citrine, a pale yellow-green. There are summer days of aquamarine, when the bay's whole expanse is the most delicate translucent blue-green, so like that stone.

At dawn, looking east, I see coral highlights reflected in the water from the rising sun and undulating in the early-morning breeze. Out in a boat and looking west to a vivid sunset, I have seen blood-red waters to rival a ruby. Shallow waters along the shore seem to me to have the yellowish brown of a topaz, while water over the dark gold of sand is like the tiger-eye stone. With the setting sun at just the right angle above the water, I have seen the living green of an emerald.

And sometimes, at twilight, after a bright day of sun, the bay turns an otherworldly amethyst-purple for a few moments before darkness falls.

I do not need precious stones in a jewel box, I have them nearby to enjoy freely. And I can share them all with you.

Or do you have a jewel from Pleasant Bay to share with me?

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Namequoit Sailing Association

By Charlotte Noerdlinger

The Namequoit Sailing Association nestles inconspicuously under the scrub pines of Frost Fish Cove in Orleans. Its tranquil little harbor, with its fleet of Widgeons and Daysailers, leads out to The River and Little Pleasant Bay. Although pressure to grow bigger is constant, NSA chooses to remain unassuming and limits its membership to 60 families.

NSA's origins date back to the late 1940s, when a group of families who sailed on Pleasant Bay thought it would be fun to do some informal racing. They were also eager to gather their children together and teach them to race so that "when they get older, they can race anywhere in the world."

The first meeting of the founding families was held on July 12, 1950, at the home of Ethel and Ken Johnson on Barley Neck Road. The 17 people present elected a chairman and a secretary and agreed to race their nine boats the following Saturday. The race kindled enthusiasm, and at a meeting on the shore of Jack Knife Point afterwards, it was voted to observe the channel markers and to open the membership roster.

There was no clubhouse, and thanks to the services of John White --- a professor at Annapolis --- no paid sailing instructor, so NSA's dues initially were minuscule. Barbara White was kind enough to let the children use her bathroom, and to store equipment in the basement of the Whites' house, but the need for a permanent clubhouse was evident.

In 1952 the Bartow family offered NSA a 10-year lease on four-and-a-half acres of land on Mayflower Point. The Johnsons donated their "clam shack," which was then dismantled, trucked to the new site and set up. Ten glorious years ensued with only a few twinges of concern about finances and membership.

When the 10 years were up, however, membership went down and expenses went up. Moving the clubhouse to its new home on Frost Fish Cove brought NSA perilously close to bankruptcy. But with the help of a dedicated core membership and the issuance of debentures, the association rode out the tough times.

Even in organizational extremis, however, NSA was a sailing force. The association joined the Lower Cape Sailing Association, obtained a Penguin Charter, hosted the Mighty Mites Regatta, competed in SMYRA and NEBCA races, and won the five-race series of the Juniors Championship in Surf City, New Jersey. NSA Juniors also organized a Little Pleasant Bay Sailing Regatta in which they regularly "creamed" their archrivals in the Camp Viking boats.

Eventually John White resigned, and sailing instructors were hired. When the association's wooden Beetle Cats proved too costly to maintain, NSA replenished the fleet with Widgeons, Sunfish and 420s. The social side of the association also burgeoned, with square dances, picnic suppers, moonlight sails and a series of lively fundraising events. Peripheral social activities, notably bridge and tennis, also became very popular.

In 2001, with over 30 families on the waiting list and 80-100 children participating in the junior program, NSA appears to be sailing before the wind. Juniors this summer will sail Monday through Thursday. Beginners will learn the basics in Widgeons and Sunfish in the morning. The more experienced sailors will learn to race in the 420s in the afternoon. Janet Lindahl has details; her number is 508-255-1470.

One small hitch is an overall declining interest in racing. Today's Juniors and Seniors clearly love to sail, but they do not have that wild passion to race which characterized the association's early members. Commodore Harry Herrick's goal is to rekindle that spirit by holding Junior races on Fridays, and by encouraging all boats to participate in the weekend races.

Harry is determined to reinfuse members with the old desire --- "to go out and have a lot of fun while doing one's best to beat the pants off one's fellow sailors."

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Chatham Yacht Club

By Roy Terwilliger

The Chatham Yacht Club, located on the shores of Pleasant Bay and on the grounds of Eastward Ho! Country Club, is one of the premier small-boat sailing clubs in the US. It is dedicated to small-sailboat racing and to junior sailing instruction.

The club's origins date to 1919, when a committee of members of the Chatham Country Club was formed to select a boat suitable for sailing in Pleasant Bay. Nineteen 18-foot Baybirds were purchased in 1921 and towed from Marblehead. Active racing began the same year. Junior sailing instruction began in 1924 when the Mighty Mite, a 14-foot, vee-bottomed boat, was selected for children to sail.

Uncertainty surrounded the early years as the Country Club disbanded in 1926. The Yacht Club's'center moved back and forth across Pleasant Bay several times, but undismayed sailors continued to race. In 1938 an influx of North Chatham families brought a proliferation of boats, and in 1941 a new boat, the Mercury, was introduced to the fleet.

World War II saw informal racing continue under the first two female Commodores, Caroline Rogers and Corinne Benson. After the war, the club was invited back to Eastward Ho! In 1947, the Beetle Cat was introduced as the boat for younger sailors, and senior members began sailing Whistlers, an elegant design by Chatham's Spaulding Dunbar.

The CYC Shore School was formally established in the 1950s to teach sailing to young members. About the same time, a formal land-rental agreement was reached with Eastward Ho! and a clubhouse was built. Regular Saturday races were held, and members were joined in competition by sailors from local summer camps --- Avalon, Pleasant Bay, Quanset and Viking. An average race then might include over 60 boats.

O'Day Daysailers and Sunfish were added in the 1950s and '60s, and in the '70s a larger boat, the Marshall 18 cruising catboat, was included in racing series. The Shore School continued to grow with the first paid Sailing Master. Today the school has 15 employees and over 135 students. In 1986 the club obtained six 420 sailboats for advanced training, and there are now 10 420s used by upper-level racers in competitions throughout the US.

After nearly 80 years, the club is thriving. In 1999, Chatham Yacht Club was chosen for the One-Design Regatta Award by the US Sailing Association for its annual regatta, still the largest free regatta in the nation.

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Pleasant Bay Cruising Club

By Ken Simpson

A friendly, informal group of sailors formed the Pleasant Bay Cruising Club in 1998. The club organizes picnics, island tours, rallies, Wednesday night and special sailboat races, shore cleanups and parties, as well as group cruises and overnights. Although the club organizes more than a dozen events yearly, its spirit is likely best revealed in countless spontaneous gatherings and cruises on Pleasant Bay and adjacent waters. Its "Tide and Current Chart" is invaluable for cruising Nantucket Sound.

PBCC makes every effort to coordinate its gatherings in harmony with other groups' events, and lists others on the PBCC schedule. The club has several guest moorings in different locations that are available to vessels flying its burgee. No boat is too small or too large, and no one is too young or too old, for PBCC.

Most importantly, PBCC is dedicated to the protection and appreciation of Pleasant Bay and adjacent waters. The club seeks to build a community of sailors, kayakers, canoeists and boaters who share a love of the sea and a spirit of camaraderie. For more information, call Ken at 508-896-4440 or Frank at 508-896-9125. E-mail: hesperus@capecod.net. Snailmail: POB 1771, Brewster, MA 02631.

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Cape Cod Vikings

The Cape Cod Viking Rowing Club was founded in the early 1980s for recreational, touring/camping and competitive rowers of traditional oar-on-gunwale boats. Other rowers and paddlers are also welcome. It is as much a state-of-mind as an organization, and counts as members not just Cape Codders and other Massachusetts residents, but also rowers from as far away as Maine, Maryland and Montana.

There's no clubhouse, but the Vikings do have a "home," and it is Pleasant Bay. For more information, check out the website: http://www.c4.net/viking.

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